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Backing
Woven or non-woven material used underneath the item being embroidered to
provide support and stability. Sometimes referred to as a stabilizer in
the home embroidery market. Backing can be cut large enough to be hooped
with the item being embroidered, or placed between the machine needle plate
and the hooped garment. Available in various weights and in various types
of material that can be either in precut sheets or rolls. Backings can also
be cutaway, tear-away, or specialty. Banded self collar A type of collar
made of the same material as the shirt. The two basic kinds of this collar
are the simulated, made of two pieces, or the true, made of four pieces.
Barré
An imperfection in fabric, characterized by a ridge or mark running in the
crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barres can be caused by
tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns, and problems
during the finishing process.
Basket Weave
A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more
warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process.
Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction flat, and maintain
a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics
can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction include monk cloth
and oxford cloth. Fabrics have a loose construction and loose appearance.
Bast Fiber
Are strong, soft, woody fibers, such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which
are obtained from the inner bark in the stems of certain plants.
Batiste
A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends.
End-uses include blouses and dresses.
Bean Stitch
Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for
outlining because it provides a bolder stitch appearance than a run stitch
and requires fewer stitches than a satin stitch.
Bedford Cord
A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise direction.
Since the fabric has a high strength and a high durability, it is often
used for upholstery and work clothes.
Besom pocket
Reinforced top seam found on the pockets of golf shirts. This reinforced
top seam keeps the pocket in shape and more durable.
Binding
A strip of material sewn or attached over or along the edge of something
for protection, reinforcement or ornamentation.
Bird Nesting
Collection of thread between the fabric being sewn and the needle plate
that generally causes thread breaks and sewing problems. Bird nesting can
be caused by improper thread tension (needle thread tension too loose);
machine not threaded properly; bobbin case not installed properly; excessive
flagging and poor digitizing.
Blanks
Undecorated items or apparel; also refers to "blank" goods.
Blend
A term applied to a yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber.
In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted
or spun together to form the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or
fabric is polyester/cotton.
Bobbin
Small spool or reel that is wound with the thread used on lockstitch machines.
Bobbins can be wound on the sewing machine or come pre-wound from the thread
supplier. Generally, pre-wound bobbins contain much higher yardage than
machine wound bobbins allowing for fewer bobbin changes. The most common
bobbin size for embroidery machines is a style “L” bobbin, even though other
special large hook machines may use style “M” bobbins. One of the most common
pre-wound bobbins used is a T-16 (V-15) CF polyester bobbin.
Bobbin Case
Round assembly that applies tension to the bobbin thread and holds the bobbin
in the machine. The latch mechanism locks the bobbin case into the hook.
It is important that the embroidery machine operator be trained to properly
install the bobbin case in the machine to minimize costly repairs of the
machine. After the bobbin case in properly positioned to the bobbin case
holder in the hook, it should then snap on the spindle when it is fully
loaded. Most embroidery machines use an “L” size bobbin and bobbin case
even though sometimes larger hook styles are used.
Bobbin Tension
Bobbin thread tension should be set so very little thread is consumed in
each stitch. Therefore, the bobbin thread is tight enough to consistently
hold the needle thread down on the underneath side of the embroidered item.
Boucle
A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The
fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and
coats.
Breeze knit
Garment-washed cool knit. By garment washing, the cool knit gets a softer
hand and reduced shrinkage.
Bridge Machine
Embroidery machine with two shafts, one for the hook assembly and one for
the needle assembly. Sewing heads are suspended from a beam allowing for
larger sewing fields than an arm machine. Bridge machines are accessible
from both back and the front of the machine through the “bridge”.
Brim
A sun visor that goes all the way around a hat. An example would be a bucket
hat or a tennis hat.
Broadcloth
A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized by a slight ridge effect
in one direction, usually the filling. The most common broadcloth is made
from cotton or cotton/polyester blends, rayon or a rayon with polyester.
Brocade
A heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern
or floral design. Common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery,
draperies, and eveningwear.
Buckram backing
Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc.
Also used to stabilize embroidery edges. Commonly used in caps to hold the
front panel with the embroidery pattern erect.
Burlap
A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric used as a carpet
backing, and as inexpensive packaging for sacks of grain or rice. Also,
as fashion dictates, burlap may also appear as a drapery fabric.
Burn-out
A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application
of a chemical, instead of color, during the burnout printing process. (Sulfuric
acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.)
Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these
instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric
in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric.
The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create
the eyelet effect. However, burnout effects can also be created on velvets
made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like
polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate.
In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys
the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric,
but leaves the ground fabric unharmed.
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