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C

Calendaring

A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced. It’s essentially an ironing process that adds sheen to the fabric by the use of heavy rollers (or calendars), pressure and steam heat.

Calico

A tightly woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small floral pattern on a contrasting background color. Common end-uses include dresses, aprons, and quilts.

Camel's Hair

A natural fiber obtained from the hair of the Bactrian camel, a two-humped pack-carrying species. The fiber is used primarily in coats, sweaters, and suits.

Cap Frames

Specialized embroidery frames (hoops) designed to hold finished caps for embroidering. Cap frames are available for flatbed machines where the finished cap flattened for sewing and for use on arm or cylinder bed machines for sewing the cap in it’s natural curved shape.

Carding

A process that eliminates fibers too short for inclusion in the spun yarn. The process also removes dirt and foreign matter still remaining in the fiber mass, and arranges the fibers into a very thin layer.

Cashmere

A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresses.

Cellulose

A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants. Cellulose is used in the production of many vegetable fibers, as well as being the major raw material component used in the production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, and triacetate.

Chain Stitch

Stitch that resembles a chain link formed with one thread fed from the bottom side of the fabric. Is done on a manual or computerized machine with a hook that functions like a needle.

Challis

A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface. The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon.

Chambray

A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton but can be a blend of cotton and rayon. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns.

Check Spring

Part of the needle thread tension assembly that assists in properly controlling the needle thread to set a good stitch with minimum sewing interruptions. See also take-up spring.

Chenille

Form of embroidery in which a loop (moss) stitch is formed on the topside of the fabric. Uses heavy yarns of wool, cotton or acrylic. Created by a chain stitch machine that has been adjusted to form this stitch type. Also known as loop piling.

Chiffon

A plain-woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibers.

Chintz

A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look. Usually made of cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers.

Clean-finished placket

Typically the interfacings of plackets are raw or edged, which means they can look ragged or uneven, particularly on light-colored shirts. By cutting the interfacing in a rectangle, turning the edges under and fusing them in place, there is a straight placket with no raw edges. All that shows inside the shirt is the smooth edge.

Coach's jacket

Style of jacket, comparable to a basic windbreaker, with fold-over collar and slash pockets.

Color blocking

Merchandising and/or cutting term whereby a certain type or block of colors ends up in the same place every time on the finished garment.

Colorfastness

A term used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.

Column Stitch

Formed by closely placed zigzag stitches that are often used to form borders. Also commonly known as satin stitch.

Combed cotton

Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and to straighten or arrange longer fibers in parallel order.

Combing

The combing process is an additional step beyond carding. In this process the fibers are arranged in a highly parallel form, and additional short fibers are removed, producing high quality yarns with excellent strength, fineness, and uniformity. This is also a secondary cleansing process performed to remove additional impurities from the staple fibers after carding. Compacting Process that compacts the space between fabric fiber pockets. This will prevent cotton shrinkage.

Complex Fill

Refers to a digitizing capability that allows areas to be designated as voids at the same time the design’s edges, or perimeter points, are defined. The design can thus be digitized as one fill area, instead of being broken down into multiple sections.

Condensed Fill

Method of digitizing in which a design is saved in a skeletal form. A proportionate number of stitches may later be placed between defined points after scale, density, and stitch lengths in a design may be changed. Also see expanded format. Cons

tructed A constructed cap has buckram backing.

Cool knit

A variation of pique that results in a different texture and surface appearance. It resembles a "waffle" pattern.

Corduroy

Fabrics, usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut.

Core-Spun Yarns

Consist of a filament base yarn, with an exterior wrapping of loose fiber that has not been twisted into a yarn. Polyester filament is often wrapped with a cotton outer layer in order to provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics and dye affinity of cotton. Sewing threads as well as household and apparel fabrics are made from these yarns.

Converter

A person or a company that buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to buyers' specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

Cotton

A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seedpod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.

Cotton sheeting

Plain-weave cotton fabric, usually pre-laundered, used for fashion sportswear. It's wrinkled to create crinkle cotton.

Crepe-back Satin

A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe.

Crew collar

A rounded, ribbed collar cut loose to the neck.

Crinkle cotton

Wrinkled or puckered cotton obtained the construction or finishing. It is prelaundered and made from cotton finishing.

Crinoline

A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in each direction).

Crocking

The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the dyeing agent, the use of incorrect dyes or dyeing procedures, or the lack of proper washing procedures and finishing treatments after the dyeing process.

Crop top

A shirt style made to expose the midriff.

Cross cut

Fabric knit on a pique machine, which is altered slightly to provide a unique stitch. The face of the fabric is two-toned, which gives it a dimensional, textured look and feel. The garment stitching will have a horizontal appearance rather than a vertical one.

Cross grain

This term is used for heavyweight fleece fabric. The fabric is sewn between ribs or panels on the side part of the garment for extra thickness and durability. Crown The upper-most part of the cap of a hat that is sewn to either a hatband, brim or sweat band.

Cuprammonium

A process of producing a type of regenerated rayon fiber. In this process, the wood pulp or cotton liners are dissolved in an ammoniac copper oxide solution. Bemberg rayon is a type of Cuprammonium rayon.

Cylinder Spring

Refers to machines with “cylinder” beds. The hook assembly is housed in a cylinder-shaped arm, allowing goods to curve around the cylinder for embroidery.

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Embroidery terms