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Tackle Twill
Refers to the sewing of polyester TWILL lettering/logos onto garments using
an embroidery or sewing machine. Professional hockey, baseball, basketball,
etc. shirts typically feature tackle twill lettering/names/logos on their
jerseys. Tackle twill appliqué's attached to a garment have an adhesive
backing that tacks in place; the edges of the appliqué's are then zigzag
stitched.
Taffeta
A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance
in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite
choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives
the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.
Taping
A design feature whereby a piece of fabric is used to cleanly cover a seam.
The term is used when referring to shoulder-to-shoulder taping.
Tapestry
A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design
depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric
design made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed,
that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on
the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.
Taslan
100% nylon fabrication with a water-resistant coating that has been woven
like a twill and washed to provide a soft hand
Tatami Stitch
Series of running stitches used to cover large areas. Different fill patterns
can be created by varying the length, angle or repeating sequence of the
stitches. Also called fill stitches.
Tear away Backing
A non-woven material placed under the fabric being embroidered to add stability
to the fabric. Once the pattern is completed, this backing can then be torn
off the design due to the needle penetrations. Typically used on more stable
fabrics such as woven goods. When choosing a tear away backing, you should
test to make sure it tears properly. If it doesn’t tear easily enough, it
may pull out some of the stitches. If it doesn’t tear cleanly, it can leave
an ugly, ragged edge. If the backing tears too easily, it may not provide
enough support for the embroidery pattern.
Tencel
A fiber made from wood pulp. Tencel gives fabric a very soft, smooth and
luxurious hand.
Tension
Refers to the amount of tension applied to the threads by the sewing machine,
which can be adjusted. Many embroiderers use the 2/3 Rule meaning that if
you look at the underside of the embroidery after it has been stitched,
that you should see approximately 2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread.
Normally this is easy to do because most embroiderers use a white bobbin
thread. Loosening or tightening the needle and bobbin tensions can accomplish
this. Proper machine thread tension is critical to quality embroidery.
Tension Assembly
Device used to apply tension to the needle thread to form a stitch. Consists
of a tension post with take-up spring attached, tension discs, tension release
disc, tension spring and tension nut.
Tension Control Weave
A type of decorative weave that is characterized by a puckered effect which
occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before
the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.
Tensioner
Are the devices on the front of the machine head that controls the tension
on the needle thread. Each needle and thread position has its own Tensioner
and all of them should be set as close as possible to get quality stitching.
The thread tension assembly normally consists of a post, thread tension
knob, tension spring and two tension discs. When the thread tension knob
is turned clockwise, it screws down on the post compressing the tension
spring on the tension discs. This applies more pressure on the needle thread
that is sandwiched between the two tension discs and is against the post.
More tension will pull more needle thread from the underside allowing more
bobbin thread to be seen.
Terry Cloth
A typical uncut pile weave fabric. Using two sets of warp yarns forms this
fabric. When the filling yarns are packed into place with loose yarn and
are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed.
Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.
Terry Velour
A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile
on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand.
Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.
Thread
Embroidery can be sewn with many types and sizes of threads depending on
the desired finished appearance. Embroidery threads are commonly made from
rayon, polyester, cotton and metallics. Rayon threads are generally made
with a twisted multifilament construction and have a high sheen. Polyester
threads can be made in three different thread constructions including a
twisted multifilament, air entangled and spun construction. Obviously, cotton
threads are only made in a spun construction. Both spun polyester and spun
cotton thread have a “matte” or low sheen appearance. Rayon and Polyester
filament threads have a high sheen. Polyester is stronger than Rayon and
has superior color fastness and abrasion / chemical resistance. Metallics
are filament threads that have the highest luster and are formed with a
synthetic core wrapped in metal foil. Generally metallic threads do not
sew as well as polyester or rayon threads. The most common ticket size for
rayon or polyester embroidery threads is a No. 40, however other sizes are
available. A&E’s Signature polyester embroidery thread comes in a variety
of sizes including a No. 40, 30, 20, 10 and 3004 used for serging appliqués.
Thread Break Detector
Device that detects thread breakage and stops the machine automatically
allowing the operator to rethread the needle and restart the machine. On
multi-head embroidery machines, when the needle thread breaks on one head,
all the machines stop. Therefore, using a thread that will minimize thread
breakage is recommended to optimize stitching time.
Three-D (3D) Foam
Foam that is used to add dimension to an embroidery pattern that is typically
used on caps. The 3D Foam is placed on the topside of the pattern and stitched
over with shortened stitches to cut the Foam. The excessive foam is then
pulled away from the embroidery giving a 3D appearance. 3D Foams are available
in various thicknesses.
Ticking
A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for
covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. Using a plain,
satin, or twill weave construction can make the fabric.
Tie In Stitches
Small stitches used at the beginning of a sewing cycle, particularly on
satin stitches, to prevent the thread from pulling out of the embroidery.
See also tie off stitches.
Tie Off Stitches
Small stitches, usually about 1 mm in length that “lock” the stitches in
the fabric to prevent the stitch from unraveling when the thread is trimmed.
Without Tie off stitches the thread can potentially unravel and destroy
the embroidery. They are particularly necessary when making satin stitches
wider than 1.2mm, as satin stitches have a tendency to unravel more easily
than running or fill stitches.
Topping
Materials hooped or placed on top of fabric that have definable nap or surface
texture, such as corduroy and terry cloth, prior to embroidery. It provides
a smooth surface so that the stitches can be laid down properly and prevents
the wale or nap from interfering with proper stitch appearance. Includes
a variety of substances, such as plastic wrap, water-soluble “foil” and
open-weave fabric that has been chemically treated to disintegrate with
the application of heat. Also known as facing.
Triacetate
A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose.
However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber.
Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than
acetate. It can be hand or machine-washed and tumble dried, with relatively
good wrinkle recovery.
Tricot Knit
A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent
parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel
arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously.
Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the
beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women's lingerie items such as
slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns.
Trimmers
Thread trimming device located under the needle plate in the embroidery
machine used to automatically cut the needle and bobbins threads before
the design jumps from one area to another or performs a color change. This
trimming is done when the needle is out of the work and the take-up is near
the top of its stroke.
Trimmers
Thread trimming device located under the needle plate in the embroidery
machine used to automatically cut the needle and bobbins threads before
the design jumps from one area to another or performs a color change. This
trimming is done when the needle is out of the work and the take-up is near
the top of its stroke.
Trimming
Operation in the finishing process that involves trimming the reverse and
topsides of the embroidery, including jump stitches and backing.
Tubular Embroidery
Embroidery produced on a cylinder bed embroidery machine that allows tubular
fabric or pre-assembled garments (i.e. sleeves). Allows sewing a part or
the garment after it has been assembled, as compared to using a flatbed
machine to sew fronts or sleeves prior to assembly the garment.
Tubular knit
A golf shirt style with no side seams. The bottom is rounded all around.
Tulle
A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon
shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.
Tweed
A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing
colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.
Twill
Characterized by a diagonal rib. Twill weaves are used to produce a strong,
durable, firm fabric.
Twill Weave
A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and
filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect
on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics,
the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the backside of the fabric.
Twist
A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns
are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers
close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one
another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist
helps determine appearance, performance, and durability of both yarns and
the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to
the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted
yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist
is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or
turns per centimeter (tpc).
Two-ply yarn
Two strands of thread are used to form the yarn that is woven into terry
loops
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